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It's a complete, self-contained meal. The hot pita ($4.75) pillows strips of beef and lamb. Granted this meat isn't sliced from an actual leg roasting on a spit -- the modern, fast-food version relies on minced beef and lamb, seasoned and compressed into a cone that's rotisseried and sliced to order -- but for some mysterious and blessed reason, it does the trick, especially with bites of hot crunchy French fries. The effect is cornucopia-like when it comes out of the short order kitchen topped with tomato, onion and a choice of red (tomato-based) or white sauce (yogurt-based). Your pita runneth over.

Greek Souvlaki is at 404 E. 300 South, Salt Lake City; 801-322-2062. Hours are Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

-- Vanessa Chang

Read the complete review of" Target="_BLANK">Greek Souvlaki.