Luxury resort melds into southern Utah landscape, hopes to defy the economy

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Big Water » Some people might think Big Water is a backwater. The streets of this tiny southern Utah town (pop. around 450) weren't even paved until 2002. But now it's home to one of the state's most upscale resorts, where accommodations top out at $3,000 a day.

Amangiri, the latest destination resort operated by Singapore-based Amanresorts, opened Oct. 15 in a valley in Kane County near the Arizona border and Lake Powell. Arriving guests are ushered past blocks of black stone inscribed with a poem by Octavio Paz before checking into a place that pampers with massage, yoga sessions, water therapy and meals made to their specifications.

Amangiri (it means peaceful mountain) includes a 34-room hotel and a spa built of concrete that blends almost seamlessly into the surrounding desert and sandstone. Private villas also are planned on the resort's 600 acres, with the first scheduled to be completed by 2011.

Even in a down economy, the resort is expected to boost not only Kane County's economy but also its profile.

Kay Giles, director of county's Office of Tourism, recently toured the resort with other state tourism officials.

"When I heard it was all made of concrete, I thought it would have a cold feeling," she said. "But when I saw how it had been colored and how it blended into the background, I was impressed. It felt warm and friendly. I love it."

She said the resort has the potential to increase the amount of money the county gets from a transient room tax added to the price of hotel rooms.

Homi Vazifdar is managing director for Canyon Equity LLC, which built and manages the resort for Aman. He said the recession could have an effect on bookings but that he is not worried.

"The economy was hit with a tsunami that effected everybody, not just Amangiri" he said. "You can certainly expect some decline [in guests], but when you start getting your financing in place for a project like this, you have no choice but to take it to the finish line. You have to baby sit it, nurture it and take your lumps until the economy returns."

Vazifdar said a steady stream of journalists and travel writers from around the world have been streaming through the resort, along with "hotel-centric gallavanters" who can afford it.

"We expect a buzz in the market from the press [for] the next three to four months," he said.

To accommodate customers, many of the resorts' 150 staffers were hired from Big Water and nearby Kanab and Page, Ariz., said Andrew Alanbrack, Amangiri's front office manager. They underwent extensive training to meet resort standards, he added.

As is the case at other Aman resorts tucked into out-of-the-way locations around the world, guests will be catered to from the time they arrive and are greeted with warm or cool towels, depending on the season, and lemonade with a hint of sage. Big Water is only Amanresorts' second U.S. location, the being in Jackson Hole, Wyo.

"We hope to anticipate our guests' every need," Alanbrack said.

The resort offers six levels of accommodations, from desert view suites that go for $600 a night to the Amangiri suite at $3,000 a night. In the middle range are pool suites for $1,200, offering rooms with a view of towering cliffs through a wall of windows that can be opened to the elements. Some suites, such as the Amangiri, offer individual private courtyards with a pool, and a staircase that leads to a sky terrace with a daybed for sun lounging or nighttime stargazing.

Alanbrack said most guests will fly into Page from Denver or Phoenix and be shuttled in BMWs to the resort, about 20 miles away.

Amangiri's winding walls are designed to simulate slot canyons in the area. Within them are sitting areas, water features and open terraces for relaxing and entertaining.

The main pavilion features three "living room" areas with seating, a library, an open kitchen and a dining area that looks out on a huge swimming pool surrounding an escarpment of Navajo sandstone.

"It dates back to the Jurassic," said Alanbrack of the formation.

The resort's general manager, Sunny Lusted, said Amangiri is designed to give guests a range of experiences, including socializing with other patrons.

"We want to give guests the opportunity to have their own time and maybe mix it up with others at the end of the day," she said.

The resort's spa has an exercise room with the latest equipment, areas for yoga, hydrotherapy, massages and a beauty salon.

Other recreation, including hot air ballooning, horseback rides or guided trips and hikes to the area's numerous national parks and monuments, is available through private contractors. Guests can float the Colorado River below Glen Canyon dam, known for its quality fly fishing, or spend time on Lake Powell. Tours of the area focus on its natural and human history, as well as its rich paleontology.

Big Water mayor Rick Parsons said his town has no commercial development, so he doesn't expect much impact from the resort. "They are pretty much self-contained, so we're kind of at a disadvantage. We do have a few workers who live in rental units here."

Parsons said the resort's security and isolation is what makes it attractive to guests. "I was talking to a [resort official] who said these are the people who don't want a lot of paparazzi around."

Still, tourism executive Giles said county officials are hoping those publicity-shy guests will take advantage of some local events, such as the Western Legends festival staged each August.

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