This is an archived article that was published on sltrib.com in 2016, and information in the article may be outdated. It is provided only for personal research purposes and may not be reprinted.
When I heard that the old Market Street Broiler near the University of Utah would become the second location for Porcupine Pub and Grille, one word came to mind: brilliant.
With its expansive menu and casual atmosphere, it seemed the perfect location for a Porcupine. The original Porcupine, near the mouth of Little and Big Cottonwood canyons, has done a brisk business thanks, in part, to hungry skiers going to and fro. At the university location, there's an equal supply of hungry students.
While location is a factor for both restaurants, Porcupine also delivers on two things Americans love: variety and portion. The downside of the first is that by trying to be all things to all people, not everything on the menu is going to be great.
A lot of diners are willing to make that tradeoff for quantity. I'm not one of them, but I'm also not one to argue with success. Porcupine has hit on a winning formula, so good for them. I'm just going to be choosy about what I order when I visit.
And there is a lot to choose from: sandwiches and salads, soups and pastas, ribs and burritos and a small selection of entrees that include steak, chicken and fish. A weekend brunch menu offers many items from the lunch and dinner menus along with a selection of omelettes and other egg dishes ($9.99 to $15.99). I thought "football player" when I read the description of the Big Ol' Pile of Breakfast: double order of house potatoes, four eggs, bacon AND sausage, all smothered with cheese. Oh, and toast.
One of my favorites at Porcupine is the portobello mushroom sandwich ($11.99). Even with all the melted Jack cheese, it still felt like a healthy meal thanks to its tasty whole-grain bun (there are other bread choices) and an onion and tomato garnish that added crunch and flavor. A lively basil pesto helped everything play well together.
The fish tacos ($16.99), however, didn't make my greatest hits list. While the crispy corn tortilla folded inside one made of flour added an interesting textural contrast, the fish (wahoo) was tasteless. The plate included very large servings of rice and beans that were also uninspiring. Meh.
Another fail: fried pickles ($9.99). First, a pickle should be cold and crunchy. I just cannot warm up to a hot dill spear covered in breading that slides off when you try to eat it. That was offered as a special one night, but special it wasn't.
One more special that wasn't: crab ravioli ($18.99) that was overwhelmed by a heavy tomato sauce and so tough it was chewy.
I've had good luck with other specials, however, so don't rule them all out. A lamb stew that came with the portobello sandwich (diners can opt for fries, green or pasta salad, or soup with sandwiches) was full of meaty flavor but not overpowering, and chock full of carrots and potatoes.
And a pasta special of linguine and cream sauce with chicken ($15.99) offered perfectly cooked noodles and chopped fresh basil encased in a flavorful, smooth sauce that was just the right amount of rich. It was really enough for two meals, if you like sharing.
Just as big, but not quite as scrumptious, was a regular menu item of linguine with sundried tomatoes and artichokes ($14.99). Porcupine offers a choice of protein that can added to pastas and salads for an additional cost, and here shrimp was a good choice ($4.99). But that quantity of pasta needed more tangy dried fruit, and perhaps a judicious sprinkling of red pepper flakes, to spark the cream-lightened tomato sauce that clung to the noodles, again expertly cooked. It was bland enough that my favorite toddler loved it the next day, but some grownups would appreciate more spice.
There is a menu for kids, by the way, that offers what they love: grilled cheese (with fries or fruit), fish and chips, a quesadilla, chicken strips, cheese pizza or pasta with marinara or alfredo sauce. Downsized brunch items are offered as well on weekends.
I tried the aforementioned tacos at Porcupine because I've had other good fish there. The ahi tuna rolls ($13.99), one of eight appetizers on the menu, are lovely morsels of rare fish bundled with veggies in wonton and nori paper then just lightly fried. They're perfect for a light lunch or to share with the table. Beware the wasabi sauce: In large doses, it will make you weep.
An ahi tuna entrée ($24.99) was also cooked with a light hand and crusted with sesame seeds and black peppercorns. It came with a large piece of grilled pineapple, which was a nice flavor mate for the fish, and a mound of crispy vegetables that included broccoli, zucchini and red peppers.
But a more traditional pub dish of fish and chips ($19.99) was rather ho-hum because the fish was drier than it should have been and the breading didn't contribute much flavor.
A couple other menu staples might be better options. The baby back ribs ($18.99) were a generous portion of tender meat that wore a mildly sweet sauce that enhanced the pork flavor and came with basic mashed potatoes and crisp tender veggies. The Greek pizza ($13.99), which was enough for two, was so loaded with sausage, feta cheese, sliced tomatoes and kalamata olives that it got a bit swampy in the middle. But the crust was flavorful and the generous sprinkling of basil was fresh.
The pub has a healthy and varied selection of beers on tap favoring local breweries and offers a rotating selection of seasonal brews. There are nearly a dozen wines available, too, along with reasonably priced specialty cocktails that range from my favorite, the Italian Ice with vodka, blood orange juice and lemon soda ($6.75), to "martinis" such as the Snowboarder on Alta, a blend of Jägermeister, rum and pineapple juice. Pet peeve: Drink prices are not listed.
Beyond the food, the newest Porcupine is an impressive use of an old space. It's more open and flooded with natural light, thanks to an extensive remodel that features lots of blond wood and metal accents. Both levels offer table and booth seating, but the ground floor also has a bar with stool seating. The patio, already popular in the old days, will certainly be jammed when the weather warms.
I thought perhaps the restaurant had an elevator or dumbwaiter to hoist the food upstairs, but the friendly and hardworking servers run up and down those stairs all day, bless them. Without exception, service was cordial and prompt every time I visited.
While not everything on the menu made my greatest hits list, there's enough to keep me coming back, especially considering the convenient location, friendly service and deep beer bench. —
HH
Porcupine Pub and Grille
Food • HH
Mood • HHhj
Service • HH
Noise • bbbbm
Porcupine's second location is housed in a historic fire station that was once home to Market Street Broiler. An extensive remodel created a sleek, casual setting in which to sample the large selection of locally brewed beers on tap and a menu that sometimes promises more than it delivers. Good bets: ribs, ahi spring rolls, pizza and the portobello sandwich.
Location • 258 S. 1300 East, Salt Lake City; 801-582-5555
Online • http://www.porcupinepub.com
Hours • Monday-Friday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday, 9:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 9:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Children's menu • Yes
Prices • $$-$$$
Liquor • Full service
Reservations • No
Takeout • Yes
Wheelchair access • Yes
Outdoor dining • Yes
On-site parking • Yes
Credit cards • Yes