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The fresh food I've eaten this summer has been fantastic, and, yes, I'm always doing my best to cultivate healthy eating habits even when I travel.

But once in a while, I want to eat foods that are a tad taboo according to today's strict set of dietary standards. After all, I did grow up in an era when "sticking to the ribs" was a culinary compliment.

So, with hints of fall blowing in on the breezes, I've been getting the urge to slip into an old flannel shirt and whip up some down-home cooking. In fact, I feel like something fried.

This may sound old fashioned in an age of artisan salads and sushi, both of which I love. But I've found a way to tweak the tradition. Imagine old-fashioned flavor happily married to modern health sense. Fried foods needn't be completely phased out of our diets based on the fear of fat.

We can enjoy hot, crispy, finger-lickin' goodness in our own kitchens without worrying about acid reflux, blocked arteries or colossal calorie counts. The secret to guilt-free frying, as my mother taught me years ago, is jump from the frying pan into the oven.

Oven fried favorites • Practically any deep-fried food can be oven fried with delicious results. Fried chicken and french fries are just two examples. Don't forget fish fillets, clams, okra and zucchini. Fantastic flavor and crunch comes from using a seasoned crumb coatings, which seals moisture into oven-fried meats. A drier crumb mixture will oven-fry to an even more satisfying crisp than a batter.

To achieve the "stickiness" of the coating, marinate the meat in buttermilk for a few hours. This will lend a tender inner texture and also help your crumb coating cling to the meat. Finish oven-fried fare with a quick broil, which will add even more crunch and a gorgeous golden-brown color. —

Oven-fried chicken

4 organic chicken breast halves, skin removed

1 cup organic buttermilk

1 cup coarse breadcrumbs

½ cup flour

1 teaspoon garlic powder

½ teaspoon paprika

¼ teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon olive oil

Marinate chicken breast halves in a sealed container with buttermilk for a few hours or overnight.

Coat baking dish with olive oil and heat oven to 450 degrees.

Mix breadcrumbs, flour and seasonings in a shallow bowl. Dredge each chicken breast half thoroughly in the crumb mixture and place in oiled baking dish.

Bake uncovered until chicken is fully cooked and coating is golden brown, about 30 minutes.

Move chicken to an oven rack that is 6 inches from the heat element. Switch oven setting to broil for 2 or 3 minutes, just until breading is beautifully brown. Servings • 4

Source: MaryJane Butters —

Momma Butters' oven fries

Potatoes

Olive oil

Salt

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Wash potatoes, but do not peel. Cut into strips about 3/8 inch thick, placing strips in a bowl of ice water as you go. Soak for 30 minutes. (This will keep the potatoes from soaking up too much oil during cooking.)

Drain potato strips and pat dry with a dish towel. Drizzle with olive oil and toss to coat lightly. At this point, you can sprinkle them with Parmesan cheese, black pepper, a Santa Fe spice blend (see accompanying recipe) or any seasoning you enjoy. Bake in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet until golden brown, 30 to 40 minutes. Sprinkle lightly with salt, and dip in fry sauce: equal parts ketchup and mayo. (Be sure neither contains high-fructose corn syrup.)

Source: MaryJane Butters —

Santa Fe spice blend

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons coriander

3 tablespoons cumin

1 tablespoon garlic powder

2 teaspoons oregano

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon salt

Combine all the ingredients. Use as a seasoning to spice up savory oven-fried food.

Servings • about 1/3 cup

Source: MaryJane Butters