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$14 • This is the stuff of expense accounts or special occasions. However you come by it at Ruth's Chris Steak House, it's worth it. Any steak can be ordered this way. The T-bone with its gargantuan proportions and meaty flavor is an ideal bed for such an extravagant crown that includes golden, tender crab cakes, slightly wilting spears of bright green asparagus and a drizzling of lemon-hued bĂ©arnaise sauce. Possibly unnecessary, yes. But since when do you go to a steakhouse out of necessity?

Ruth's Chris is at 275 S. West Temple, Salt Lake City; 801-363-2000. Open M-Th, 5-10 p.m.; F-S, 5-11 p.m.; Su, 5-9 p.m.