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$8.95 for 2 pieces • Uni (oo-nee) is basically sea urchin. For those of you who haven't given uni a proper try, Hi Sushi is a good place to do it.

The price is reasonable and the product is impeccable. The restaurant serves about two dozen pieces of this prized and often misunderstood shellfish a week.

But, trust the chefs' judgment and acquiesce to the briny, creamy, salty, pungent, smooth, and wonderfully strange flesh of the sea urchin, and that number should go up significantly.

Hi Sushi is at 1400 S. Foothill, #152, Salt Lake City; 801-906-8320. Open Monday to Friday, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; 5-9:30 p.m.; Saturday, 12-9:30 p.m.