This is an archived article that was published on sltrib.com in 2011, and information in the article may be outdated. It is provided only for personal research purposes and may not be reprinted.
Draper • Everything at Vuz — pronounced "views" — is big and dramatic.
The vista from its two balconies, complete with striking, modern fireplaces, is lovely. The moulding and furniture are done in heavy, dark wood. A wall of Mondrianesque multicolored glass lies just beyond a host stand, which is large enough to accommodate up to four hostesses. On weekends, in a hospitable, yet grandiose gesture, a gentleman sporting a white tuxedo jacket greets guests as they arrive.
Another "big" thing about Vuz: the bill. On average, appetizers cost $12, entrées are $34 and desserts are $10. For those prices, what kind of food can you expect?
A lot of meat, some seafood, token pasta and vegetarian dishes and a solitary delivery of warm bread. There are no amuses bouches "compliments of the chef," or an intermezzo granita à la Tiburon Fine Dining in Sandy.
Vuz did provide my first encounter with braised Kurobuta pork ($29). The slow-cooking technique worked well, imbuing the accompanying white beans with rich pork flavor. Golden beets and steamed asparagus added color and a nubbin of goat cheese gave the dish some punch.
The rack of lamb ($40) sported three juicy ribs served alongside a flat, round potato galette and purée of chestnuts.
Also well executed — in color and doneness — was the saffron risotto that came with the pan-seared duck breast ($32) and chipotle-honey wine gastrique. The kicky-sweet sauce complemented the earthy duck, but several slices of the bird were sinewy.
The lone pasta dish ($32) was teaming with expertly cooked mussels, shrimp and chunks of fish but the pasta was undersalted and the advertised "creamy" butter sauce lacked any cream and was all butter.
Seafood shows up several times on the appetizer menu. In deconstructed spaghetti and lobster ($12) a tangle of well-seasoned pasta is on one end of a rectangular platter, while a hollowed-out egg holding a delicate three-cheese sauce sits at the other end. Pour the luscious sauce over the spaghetti and enjoy nibbles of sweet lobster claw in between.
"Shooters" of mussels ($11) are minced along with tart yuzu juice and some hot spice that's nestled into the five bivalves that even the avocado garnish couldn't quell. It was a good thing our table liked heat, otherwise I would have sent it back as the menu said nothing about the dish being spicy.
Four golf ball-sized Maine scallops ($34) come with a mixture of edamame, tiny beets, prosciutto and shiitake mushrooms. Bok choy added color and crunch while messes of microgreens topped each scallop, unfortunately hiding the perfectly seared orbs.
Rosé, with its floral, steely qualities was a great match for the fish dishes. The Vuz wine list has three ($26-$34) along with whites and reds that, overall, are reasonably priced. If you bring your own wine, corkage is $10.
The appetizer list also includes beef prepared three ways ($13). It came as carpaccio; sautéed with mushrooms; and braised, shredded and mixed with a sun-dried tomato sauce atop a sturdy polenta square. The carpaccio's presentation trumped its blandness; the other two items looked almost identical though they had good flavor.
Just as I was tucking into dessert — a silky smooth cheesecake ($10) with a textbook graham cracker crust and a sour cherry sauce that cut the dessert's richness — I noticed the ceiling in the main dining room. It is painted sky blue with puffs of white clouds, like at The Venetian in Las Vegas.
Other desserts were just as heavenly. The chocolate tart ($10) was glorious alongside coffee ice cream with a light brownish meringue cap. Bread pudding ($11) was a small cylinder sans nuts or raisins — the way I like it — and a warmish crème anglaise . A key lime tart ($10) had just enough pucker properties.
On another visit, my dining partner and I sat in the hip Vuda (pronounced voo-dah) Bar and Lounge with Lady Gaga's "Alejandro" video running, and a sound level that became painful with a full house.
Diners can order from the same menu as the one in the dining room or select hors d'oeuvres such as lobster croquettes ($12) and foie gras PB&J ($15) and wash them down with one of the bar's signature cocktails.
When we could no longer hear each other, we asked to be moved to the main dining room for dessert, which our server was happy to do in order to continue his impeccable service.
On our first visit, our server was professional but also a bit obtrusive at times. The water glasses stayed empty, wine went unpoured and an empty place setting lingered throughout our meal.
Views, er Vuz, has an overall pleasing atmosphere, commanding views and relatively good food. It's expensive, for sure, but fills a niche for fine dining in the southern part of the valley.
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HHH
Vuz Restaurant & Vuda Bar
Food • HHh
Mood • HHH
Service • HHH
Noise • bbb
Be prepared to spend big at Vuz — pronounced views — where the kitchen turns out modern American fare such as Kurobuta pork, mussel shooters and Caesar salad presented in a crisp Parmesan cylinder.
Location • 12234 S. Draper Gate Drive (1350 East), Draper; 801-617-8600
Online • http://www.vuzrestaurant.com
Hours • Monday to Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4 p.m. to midnight; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Children's menu • No
Prices • $$$$
Liquor • Full bar
Corkage • $10
Reservations • Accepted
Takeout • No
Wheelchair access • Yes
Outdoor dining • Yes
On-site parking • Yes
Credit cards • All major