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Wendover • Geography defines Wendover.

There are actually two separate cities on the Utah-Nevada border, Wendover and West Wendover, but together they form a relatively unique community in the middle of a harsh desert environment.

For many Wasatch Front residents, West Wendover's glistening casinos, discount liquor and cigarette shops and adult novelty stores are a relatively short two-hour drive away.

All that most people really know and care about the towns are the casino-resorts with their slot machines, gaming tables, sports books, bars, hotel rooms, buffets and fancy restaurants.

But the two towns and surrounding area also offer history, outdoor recreation and culture for those looking for something to do besides gamble.

"The local perception along the Wasatch Front is that Wendover is a gambling town," said Brian Yadon of Intermountain Guide Service, which offers guided tours and ATV rides to many of the area's historic and outdoor attractions. "Most people come here to gamble. They are not looking beyond that for outdoor opportunity. The people I take out go back and spread the word. It is impressive to people what they can see close to Wendover. They can see bighorn sheep, antelope and even wild horses. They wouldn't think that would even be possible."

Some of these non-gambling activities fit in with the resort town theme.

For example, the relatively new, state of the art 1,000-seat Peppermill Concert Hall draws big-name entertainers who, in turn, give folks another excuse to drive west to gamble and perhaps see a show featuring stars such as Jay Leno, Bill Maher, the Chippendales, Alice Cooper or Sawyer Brown.

It is within walking distance from West Wendover's four main casinos. Its relatively intimate setting coupled with two video screens, a bar and great lighting offer concert fans a great experience.

So does the spa at Montego Bay Resort, where those wanting a break from the casinos can relax with a massage or body wrap.

West Wendover City also operates the 18-hole public Toana Vista Golf Course, where new pro Mike Propp plans to offer one-, two- and three-day golf academies when the course reopens in February on President's Day weekend.

The course, named after a nearby mountain range, offers inexpensive rates, a lush oasis of green with views of the surrounding rock formations and distant salt flats desert and a getaway for local tournaments. It is part of the Nevada side of town's recreation program that includes an outdoor swimming pool, equestrian park, ball fields, tennis courts and a recreation center with a gym and weight rooms.

But, for those who take the time to brave the sometimes harsh elements to explore, it is the surrounding area with its basin and range and its human history that can dazzle and surprise.

"Wendover is so dramatic," said Matt Coolidge, director for the California-based Center for Land Use Interpretation, which operates both an artist-in-residence program and a small gallery in Wendover. "You come over the mountains from Nevada, and its basin and range and drop into the salt flats. There is a startling transition in the landscape."

He said the perceived emptiness of the surrounding area is reflected in West Wendover's motto: "On the Edge."

The starkness of the landscape has often contributed to its history.

It was here, for example, that the Army Air Corps constructed the Wendover Airfield, which at one time consisted of 668 buildings and was home to some 20,000 people. The remoteness contributed to the secrecy of the mission in which bombing crews trained to drop two atomic bombs on Japan to end World War II.

The airfield, with its long runway, is still used. In fact, airport director Jim Petersen said the facility is the second-busiest commercial airport in Utah. Casino charters bring in about 60,000 people each year.

The historic airfield has also become a tourist destination because of its history. Twice daily tours are offered that include stops at the hangar where the Enola Gay and Box Car bombers were housed, the bomb sight storage vault and the bomb loading pits. Visitors can also visit the free museum, open daily, where they can pick up a self-guided map of the remaining facilities.

A highlight for some includes walking into "The Jailbird" plane used as a prop in the movie Con Air, one of many movies that have used the airfield over the years. Folks can also climb up the tower, which is being restored.

The surrounding area, which includes the Bonneville Salt Flats, the Silver Lake Mountains national scenic backway, Pilot Peak, Blue Lake with its year-round 72-degree water temperature, the Goshute Range where raptor viewing in the fall is amazing and Danger and Juke Box Cave offer human and natural glimpses of the unique surroundings.

The constant, though, is the surrounding geography. Walk away from the casino, drive up the nearby hill on the west side of town, and simply savor one of the world's most unusual places.

wharton@sltrib.comTwitter: @tribtomwharton Why Wendover?

There are a variety of stories on the origin of the name Wendover for the border town that straddles Utah and Nevada but, according to the book Utah Place Names, all the versions refer to "wending over the desert" because the town is completely surrounded by the desert. Non-Gambling Recreation in Wendover

1. Peppermill Concert Hall: This state-of-the-art 1,000-seat hall features comfortable seating, bar drinks and two video screens. A surprising number of top acts, including Bill Maher, Jay Leno, Bill Cosby, Trace Adkins and Alice Cooper, make their way to Wendover for shows. For schedules and tickets, log on to http://www.wendoverfun.com or call 1-888-737-7849.

2. Historic Wendover Airfield and Museum: Located on the southeast corner of the Utah side of town, this active airport claims to be Utah's second busiest commercial operation, with about 60,000 passengers flying in a year. But it's best known as the most original remaining World War II Army Air Corps Base and as the spot where pilots and crews trained to drop the first atomic bombs in Japan. In 1944, 668 buildings had been constructed and there were 20,000 people on base. These days, there is a small museum and a self-guided driving tour. Both are free, though a $2 donation is suggested for the brochure of the driving tour. The museum is open seven days a week from 8 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Tours of the base cost $10 and are usually available at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. Some of the buildings, including the historic hangar that housed the Enola Gay bomber that dropped the first bomb, are being restored. Tour "The Jailbird" airplane used as a prop in the movie Con Air. For information, 435-665-2308 or log on to http://www.wendoverairbase.com.

3. Toana Vista Golf Course: Owned by the West Wendover Recreation District, this scenic 18-hole layout is closed until President's Day weekend. Green fees are $42, with a cart, though discounts are available for hotel guests. A new golf academy is scheduled to open in 2012. For information, call 800-852-4330 or log on to http://www.toanavistgagolf.com.

4. Bonneville Salt Flats: Located just east of the city off Exit 4, the world-famous Bonneville Speedway is a hub of activity from August through October when motor sports enthusiasts from around the world try to set land speed records on the flat surface. Even when the salt is too wet to drive on, taking the drive out to the edge and seeing the BLM historic sign offers a glimpe at one of nature's most unusual sites.

5. Spa Montego Bay: The Montego Bay resort has added a full service spa offering a variety of massages, body wraps and sugar glows. Spa hours are daily from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Call 800-217-0049, ext. 44955 for reservations, which are suggested two weeks in advance.

6. Blue Lake: Located about 24 miles southeast of Wendover (the last 6.8 miles off U.S. 93A are a passable but rough dirt road), this Utah Division of Wildlife Resources' managed area is popular with scuba divers because of its clear turquoise waters and 72-degree year-round water temperatures.

7. The Center for Land Use Interpretation: Located in an old Wendover Airfield barracks (get the code at the airfield museum), the center displays of land-based art from the area and also hosts an artist-in-residence program. For information, call 310-839-5722 or log on to http://www.clui.org.

8. West Wendover Recreation: The district includes city parks (including a nice one for kids across the street from the Peppermill), an equestrian park, outdoor Olympic-size swimming pool, ball fields, tennis courts and recreation center including video games, weights and a gym.

9. Historic Markers: Despite its remote location, Wendover was the site of many historic events and was part of some of the nation's first highways. A historic display near the West Wendover City offices is located next to Wendover Will, the 90-foot tall world's largest mechanical cowboy that used to greet visitors to the old Stateline Hotel but was moved to the western end of town. The display tells about the Victory and Lincoln Highways, the railroad, the California Trail and other bits of history. A Lincoln Highway marker can be seen on the south side of the Montego Bay resort, next to a monument to the Transcontinental Telephone Connection, which was completed on June 17, 1914, near the Utah-Nevada border. A pole and monument marked the spot. There is also a World War II Memorial to the 509th Composite Group that trained in Wendover to drop the first atomic bombs on Japan. It is located in the eastern portion of the Nevada Welcome Center south and across the road from the Peppermill Casino. There is also a painted stripe with Nevada and Utah painted on either side of it on Wendover Boulevard marking the state line.

10. OHV Riding: Wendover offers some popular areas for ATV riding. The Knolls area about 38 miles east of Wendover and south of Interstate 80 is a popular riding area. The commercial outfitter Intermountain Guide Service based in Wendover also offers guided ATV rides closer to town.

11. Danger and Juke Box Caves: Located near Wendover, these two caves offer evidence of man's earliest days in Utah. Juke Box also served as a cool dance hall during World War II. Owned by Utah State Parks, the caves have steel bars in front of their entrances to protect them as archaeological sites. There are interpretive signs near the entrance to Danger Cave.

12. Goshute Mountain Wildlife Viewing: Located south of Wendover, the Goshute Mountains funnel hawks and other migratory birds into a spot where they can be viewed. Best times are from mid-August through the first week of November. A 2.5-mile hike with an 1,800-foot elevation gain offers the best viewing.

13. Pilot Peak: This 10,786-foot peak greeted pioneers as they made their way across the salt flats. Now, it is popular with hikers with trails on both its east and west sides. Wildlife such as mountain lion, sheep, deer and elk can sometime be seen. For directions, stop at the Nevada Welcome Center in Wendover.

14. Silver Island Mountains National Backcountry Byway: A BLM brochure for this 54-mile loop at the edge of the Salt Flats is available at the Nevada Welcome Center. In addition to offering views of the surrounding desert and Silver Island Mountainsn, the trail features historical markers about the Donner-Reed party and evidence of ancient Lake Bonneville.

15. Tokio Trolley: Located a few miles out of town about two miles from the Wendover City Cemetery, the site shows where an advanced training device for gunnery crews of the heavy bomber groups trained. All that remains are the firing pits, some concrete foundations and several stationary concrete firing platforms.

Source: West Wendover Tourism and Convention Bureau Tale of Two Cities

Most visitors to Wendover, Utah, and West Wendover, Nev., may not realize it but these are actually two cities located in two different counties and states. That means the towns each have their own mayors, city councils, administrative and public works departments. The towns are served by two city police departments, two county sheriffs and two state highway patrols.

Source: West Wendover Tourism and Convention Bureau