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Director David Gelb takes us into a Tokyo sushi restaurant, and finds an artist at work in "Jiro Dreams of Sushi," a thoughtful and gently handled documentary about food, family and perfection.

Jiro Ono, at 85, is considered one of the world's greatest sushi chefs — holder of a Michelin Guide three-star rating for his delicate, deceptively simple combinations of fish and rice. Gelb shows us the difficulty of creating such edible treasures — the hours marinating the tuna, the full hour an apprentice must massage a squid to make it tender enough to eat, and so on, or the 10 years an apprentice must wait before being allowed to make Jiro's grilled egg-custard dish.

Jiro imparts his philosophy, and there's a fascinating look at his two sons, one who works for his father and one who broke away to start his own sushi bar. The centerpiece is a gorgeously photographed sequence showing a dinner at Jiro's restaurant, a "concerto" of the many courses (all sushi, no appetizers) that will make any foodie's mouth water.; —


'Jiro Dreams of Sushi'

Opens Friday, May 4, at the Broadway Centre Cinemas; rated PG for mild thematic elements and brief smoking; in Japanese with subtitles; 81 minutes. For more movie reviews, visit

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